I arrived on 01 June and started my four-month stay in the city of lights. I look forward to mastering oral communication in the French language, exploring the city on bike and on foot, and turning to a new chapter in life.
why I am here and why I chose a long stay
I have studied French for a long time but never attained fluency. I considered how much I had been marked by a one-month stay on a francophone island and by a four-month biology semester in South India, and decided to take another “semester” to finally reach fluency or near-fluency.
I committed to the idea almost as soon as I thought of it, with no weighing of options or consulting with anybody.
I looked at economic trends and reassured myself that hiring will remain strong for the rest of the year.
I looked at my finances and realized I had a mostly unused car sitting on a parking pad 24/7. I sold that and got more than I had paid for it two years previously. I have unreimbursed health expenditures from my health savings account that I can liquidate at any time. I have credit and some contract income and in an absolute emergency I can raid a retirement fund (though that will only happen if a disaster strikes).
I considered my investment horizon, which was too far out. I had been saving money for my 70s and 80s. However, those days may never come. After all, my mom developed dementia in her 60s. Other relatives have died young. I have no drooling children to save money for. Life is good and it’s meant to be enjoyed now. Although I expect a long life, I can only reasonably plan for 3 to 5 years out.
I also considered the absurd fiction of money, and how I was earning a higher hourly rate in an entry level job performed by high school dropouts and non English speaking immigrants than I had after getting a bachelor’s degree and working in science for 10 years. I realized that I could come back and do absolutely anything and it would be a step up from what I am doing now. I also have remote earning opportunities and technical training to commence anytime.
I looked with regret at my expired passport, which meant I had not left the country in ten years.
I looked at my life and realized I craved a turning point, a marker. Although I celebrate my childfree lifestyle, which made this trip possible, that kind of life does not have automatic markers such as “Jimmy went off to school today,” so it helps to create your own.
my travel and logistics experience
Getting a long stay visa was pricey and required a drive to San Francisco and there were small delays. I had intended to depart for the spring. But I think I will enjoy summer and early fall here even more. I am a lover of hot afternoons and warm evenings.
Getting an apartment took some bureaucracy but was worthwhile since I secured a stay for four months in the same place, with no hopping about during my stay. The place is nicer than my living space in Seattle and my neighbors always say bonsoir.
The trip was simple and involved a one hour layover in Iceland that saved me $800. the view from the tarmac was cold and foggy. I watched Tar and Goodfellas and both were excellent.
At Charles de Gaulle airport a French class classmate recognized me and banged on the window to say hi. He is a gentle retired doctor who reads French policiers and visits the country often, especially by train.
Taking the train into town was simple, and walking the compact city is easy. first impressions upon emerging from the train was that the city reeks of diesel exhaust, plus there are lots of inattentive crowds and many foreign and domestic tourists.
my Airbnb host was good. I had to stay in this tiny attic accommodation on the Ile St Louis one night before I could proceed to my long term rental. I accidentally locked myself out first thing and had to crawl onto the roof, which gave me a good photo opportunity as the Pantheon and other sites were visible.
I had Indian food near the Centre Pompidou because it was the only terrasse that was not crowded.
The next day on my walk to my long term rental I visited the pantheon, had a sad iced coffee that was meant to imitate a cold brew but fell short, relaxed in the Jardin du Luxembourg, and overheard some female American students discussing how to increase their “body count” ASAP, and I enjoyed the fantastic dry weather hovering around 80 F during the afternoon and evening.
on the walk to my apartment I passed through the Montparnasse cemetery and stumbled upon the grave of former president Jacques Chirac.
laptop, bike and groceries
The rest was simple. I secured the foundations of daily life, which for me are the same here as in Seattle: a laptop, bike and grocery store.
The bike shop staff who helped me was a friendly, fit blond named Amandine. After I said I wanted the bike, she asked what I wanted for dessert after this plat principal (as in, bike accessories). I wanted her for dessert but did not have the language to say so.
first fun excursions and visits
I jogged through the Jardin des Plantes, did lots of walking, enjoyed sunset and meditation on the seine, and checked out the Centre Pompidou.
I biked around to enjoy Nuit blanche events, where the city is lit up with outdoor opera, music and art installations, and a lovely concert in the courtyard of the Archives nationales de France. In this place in particular, I enjoyed the large painting of the heads of aristocrats being paraded around by the people. And in the pop-up opera at the tip of the Ile Saint Louis, I had an almost magical moment when the two female singers performed the Flower Duet of Delibes. It was almost magical, because the nearby drumming and guitar from young people picnicking and drinking on the Seine mostly drowned out their gentle voices.
planning an ideal day
With four months of unemployment ahead of me, and some worthy goals in mind, I must plan my ideal day. I have this in mind:
wake up at an hour fitting my chronotype
read the news and enjoy my coffee (this habit will never change)
work out with a jog or bike ride and a weights session at the plein air setup at Jardin du Luxembourg.
study French
go on an excursion (usually free, sometimes a museum, performance, reading, or other). Take photos and get better at photography.
get home and do some writing and actual work
do something to integrate in French society such as saying hello and meeting people, picking up trash, volunteering in native plantings, etc.
evening: cook, grab a cocktail, watch a movie or read a book in French.
In other words, I am designing an ideal day, and in the future I will ruthlessly cut away things that detract from this ideal day (the primary target being the rigid, on-site, 40 hour workweek)
gray man techniques
I am intrigued by the idea of the gray man, who blends in wherever he goes. There is abundant advice online on how to do this.
You don’t want to look like a spy, but rather, be forgettable. A Russian woman in Seattle was once certain enough to address me in Russian, because I had a Soviet looking crew cut and was in all black. And my brother thinks I am a spy. I do like a martini and I plan on getting several of them here. But instead of cultivating mystery it’s better to just be a part of the crowd.
In a way, it’s uncanny. As a man with a purposeful stride, a face that’s been called stoic or expressionless, and a pair of sunglasses, I found that the only person who has approached me is one Asian guy with no English nor French, looking for directions. I had just been to the installation he sought so I was able to help him. But just as in Seattle, I can go for days without anyone saying a word to me.
thinking about and communicating with the people I have (temporarily) left behind
My mom seems a little uncomfortable and unwell. Some kind of crud is being passed around her care facility. I think she will bounce back with rest.
At least three friendships of mine were blossoming back in Seattle. I regret pausing them, but they are indeed only on pause, and Seattle is my permanent home. I will return. I am not a vagabond. this kind of trip is something I will do every few years, but I will not take off in abruptly.
what’s next
Tomorrow I will visit the Grand galerie de l’evolution and the Musee de l’histoire naturelle. I am more eager for these than the Louvre or the Eiffel Tower. I imagine I will be seeing the specimens pondered over by the French scientists Darwin corresponded with, such as Saint-Hilaire, Milne-Edwards, and the elder Saint-Hilaire.
Four months means four day trips. I will visit the palais de Versailles, the chateau de Fontainebleau, la ville de Chartres, and the jardins a Giverny, which Monet considered his greatest masterpiece.
If I can, I will make friends quickly so I can enjoy their place at the beach or mountains when the city empties out later in summer. Failing that, I will simply enjoy the quieter streets and perhaps take a train to Rome or Florence.
I will find a female companion who likes learning, peace, fun and exploration. The women here dress much better than those in Seattle, where baggy clothes straight from the 90s predominate.
Next up is those museums and a book reading at Shakespeare and Co. I’ll check out the spectacular stuff. But mostly I will be biking, hanging out in parks, studying, and doing the mental and laptop work that will have a big effect on my future.
About the photo
Pop-up opera at the Place Louis Aragon.
